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Remove Mold
by Bruce Clark
- Mold
- Identifying Mold
- Removing Mold
- Moisture Damage
- Preventing Mold
- Surface Cleaning
- Buyer's Guide
If left unchecked, a major mold infestation can ruin your home - and your health!
Here's how to get rid of it.

Reprinted with permission from The Family Handyman magazine, ©2002 Home
Service Publications, Inc., an affiliate of The Reader's Digest Association, Inc., Suite 700,
2915 Commers Drive, Eagan, MN 55121. All Rights Reserved.
Mold is a major-league nuisance. It blackens the grout lines in your shower, discolors
drywall, shows up as black spots on siding, darkens decks, and grows on and rots damp wood
everywhere. Even worse, it can be bad for your health. It releases microscopic spores that
cause allergic reactions, runny noses and sneezing, as well as irritating, even injurious,
odors.
Almost every home gets mold infestations. The trick is to stop them before they get big and
harm both you and your home. On this site, we'll show you how to identify mold and eliminate
the small infestations as well as the big ones that have gotten out of hand.
You can easily remove minor mold with ordinary household cleaning products. But disturbing
big infestations can be bad for your health, particularly if you are an allergy sufferer or
have a weakened immune system. When you discover an extensive mold problem, we recommend
that you use the rigorous protective measures we show in Photos 1 - 7, or consider calling
in a professional to handle the problem. (Look under "Industrial Hygiene Consultants" or
"Environmental and Ecological Consultants" in your Yellow Pages. Or call your local public
health department.) And even if you hire pros, read through these tabs and make
sure they follow similar precautions to keep the mold from spreading throughout your house.
*Note: See tabs at the top of this page for
more of this article.
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How to Identify Mold
Mold is everywhere. It's a type of fungus that grows from tiny spores that float in
the air. It can grow almost anywhere that spores land and find moisture and a
comfortable temperature, between 40 and 100 degrees F. Typically that includes about
every damp place in your home.
You can easily spot the most visible type of mold, called mildew, which begins as tiny,
usually black spots but often grows into larger colonies. It's the black stuff you see in
the grout lines in your shower, on damp walls, and outdoors on the surfaces of deck boards
and painted siding, especially in damp and shady areas. A mildewed surface is often
difficult to distinguish from a dirty one. To test for mildew, simply dab a few drops of
household bleach on the blackened area. If it lightens after one to two minutes, you have
mildew. If the area remains dark, you probably have dirt.
Mildew is a surface type of mold that won't damage your home's structure. But other
types of mold cause rot. Probe the suspect area with a screwdriver or other sharp tool
(see photo 3). If the wood is soft or crumbles, the fungi have taken hold and rot has
begun.
If you have a high concentration of mold, you may smell it. If you detect the typical
musty odor, check for mold on damp carpets, damp walls, damp crawlspaces and wet wood
under your floors, wet roof sheathing and other damp areas. Clean up these infestations
right away before they get worse.
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1. CUT stained or musty carpet and pads into
6 x 8-ft. sections with a utility knife. Using a pump sprayer, mist the surfaces with water
to control the spread of spores, and roll up the sections. Double-wrap them in 6-mil plastic
and tape them with duct tape for disposal. Wear protective clothing (see text) and run an
exhaust fan in the window. |
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| CAUTION: A few types of mold are highly toxic. If you have
an allergic reaction to mold or a heavy infestation in your home, call in a pro to analyze
the types. Or call your local public health department and ask for mold-testing advice. |
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Removing Large Infestations Requires Precautions – And Work!
You can scrub away the surface mold common to bathrooms, decks, and siding in a matter
of minutes with a 1-to-8 bleach/water solution. But often mold grows and spreads in
places you don't notice, until you spot surface staining, feel mushy drywall or detect
that musty smell. If you have to remove mold concentrations covering more than a few
square feet, where the musty odor is strong or where you find extensive water damage,
we recommend that you take special precautions. You want to not only avoid contaminating
the rest of the house but also protect yourself from breathing high concentrations of
spores and VOCS.
- Wear old clothes and shoes that you can launder or throw away after the cleanup
work
- Wear special N-95 or P-100 respirators, in addition to goggles and gloves. See the
Buyer's Guide for a source.
- Set an old box fan or a cheap new one in a window to ventilate the room while working.
Throw it out when you're done cleaning, because the spores are almost impossible to clean
off. Tape plywood or cardboard around the window openings so the spores can't blow back
in (shown in photo 1).
- Wrap and tape moldy carpeting in 6-mil plastic, and double-bag mold-infested debris
in garbage bags for disposal (see photos 1 and 4).
- To control airborne spores, moisten moldy areas with a garden sprayer while you work
(as shown in photo 1).
- Turn off your furnace and air conditioner and cover ducts and doors to contain spores.
- Keep your wet/dry vacuum outside when you vacuum (see photo 5).
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2. SEAL the room from the rest of the house.
Cover the doorway with a barrier made of overlapping plastic sheeting and tape it to
the wall and floor. Cover all air ducts in the room with plastic and tape.
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3. PRY OFF the baseboards and trim from
contaminated areas with a pry bar and block of wood. Probe heavily stained or moisture-
swollen walls using a screwdriver to discover and open up moisture damage and hidden
mold in the insulation and wall framing. |
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Moisture Damage and Large Infestations Go Hand in Hand
Photos 1-7 demonstrate cleaning under an old leaky window where wind-driven rain
frequently got into the wall and gave mold a foothold.
You have to open up the wall to get at the mold growing inside (see photo 4). Since you
have to repair the wall anyway, don't hesitate to cut the drywall back beyond the obvious
damage to find all the mold and let the wall dry out. To avoid cutting electrical wires,
poke a hole through the damaged section and locate the wires first. Turn off the power to
the outlets before you cut.
If the moisture damage has been neglected or gone unnoticed for long, you're likely to
find rot. Where possible, remove and replace soft, spongy studs and wall sheathing. Where
removal is difficult, treat the affected areas with a wood preservative (available at
home centers) after cleaning the wood and allowing it to dry. Then double up rotted
members with pressure-treated wood.
Complete the initial cleanup by vacuuming up the debris (see photo 5). Thoroughly clean
the wet/dry vac afterward by disposing of the filter and washing out the tank, hose, and
attachments with the bleach-and-water solution.
After scrubbing the surfaces (see photo 6), simply allow the bleach solution to continue
to penetrate the surfaces and dry. Wash concrete floors with TSP, automatic dishwasher
detergent or a chlorinated cleaner such as Comet.
Set out dehumidifiers and new fans to dry the now-cleaned areas for at least three days,
then check them (by sight and smell) for mold. If you discover more mold, clean again
with bleach.
When you're sure the mold has been eliminated, seal the wood surfaces with pigmented
shellac like BIN or an oil-based primer like KILZ (see photo 7). Repaint cleaned wall
surfaces with a regular latex paint that contains a mildewcide to help stop future mold
growth. And keep in mind that if the moisture returns, mold will return.
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4. TURN OFF the electrical power to the room
and cut open the damaged wall with a reciprocating saw, drywall saw or utility knife. Mist
the moldy drywall and insulation with the pump sprayer to avoid spreading mold spores.
Double-bag moldy material in heavy-duty plastic bags and tie them shut. |
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5. VACUUM up moldy debris with a standard
wet/dry vacuum. Buy an extra length of hose and run it out the window so you can keep
the vacuum outside to avoid further spore spread. |
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6. SCRUB the surface mold stains
from walls and wood trim with a mixture of 1 qt. water and 1/2 cup bleach to kill the mold.
Use a soft brush and work until signs of the mold disappear. Wipe off, but DO NOT RINSE
these surfaces. Set trim in direct sunlight to dry. Scrub concrete with TSP or automatic
dishwasher detergent. |
7. ALLOW TO DRY, then seal all
previously infested areas with a pigmented shellac- or oil-based primer. Then install
new insulation and drywall and nail the trim back on. |
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Tips for Preventing Mold
The key to stopping most mold is to control dampness. The worst infestations usually occur
in damp crawlspaces, in attics and walls where water has leaked in from the outside, and in
basements with poor foundation drainage. Stopping leaks, ensuring good ventilation in attics,
keeping crawlspaces dry, and routing water away from the foundation are the best defenses.
Mildewcide in paint is usually effective for controlling surface mold in damp rooms like
bathrooms and outside in shady areas. Many paints already have mildewcide in them. Check with
your paint dealer to be sure. You can add mildewcide, although you might void the paint
warranty.
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Techniques for Cleaning Surface Mold
Surface molds grow in just about any damp location, such as the grout lines of a
ceramic tiled shower. They're easy to scrub away with a mixture of 1/2 cup bleach,
1 qt. water, and a little detergent. The bleach in the cleaning mixture kills the mold,
and the detergent helps lift it off the surface so you can rinse it away so it won't
return as fast. You can also buy a mildew cleaner at hardware stores, paint stores,
and most home centers.
Even for simple cleaning, protect yourself from contact with mold and the bleach
solution by wearing a long-sleeve shirt and long pants as well as plastic or rubber
gloves and goggles.
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TIP: Special gloves made of nitrile are as tough as latex
but thinner and more protective. See the Buyer's Guide for a source.
If the mold doesn't disappear after light scrubbing, reapply the cleaning mix
and let it sit for a minute or two. Then light scrub again.
Seal the clean surfaces when they're thoroughly dry to slow future moisture penetration.
Apply a grout sealer ($5 to $25 per quart from tile shops and home centers) to tile joints.
CAUTION: Don't mix ammonia or any detergent containing ammonia
with bleach. The combination forms a poisonous gas.
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Buyer's Guide
For local sources of safety gear, see "Safety Equipment and Clothing" in your Yellow
Pages
Direct Safety, Inc is a
source for:
- N-95 particulate respirator masks (item no. 03-017, about $24 for box of 10);
- unlined 13-in nitrile gloves (search for nitrile, they come in various sizes);
and
- anti-fog goggles (item no. 02-709, about $4)
The Stop Mold information on this website is reprinted with permission from The
Family Handyman magazine, © 2002 Home Service Publications, Inc., an affiliate of
The Reader's Digest Association, Inc., Suite 700, 2915 Commers Drive, Eagan, MN 55121.
All Rights Reserved.
You Can Fix It • Stop Mold • Page 77 • July/August 2002
The Family Handyman Magazine
Check their website for other articles concerning mold.
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